LACE FABRICS

Lace fabrics are formed by twisting two sets of threads together at intervals; both sets of threads are warp threads, there being no weft in lace constructions.

The warp threads are divided into two groups for lace-making, namely, warps and bobbin warps. The former are wound on beams from which they rise vertically to the lace roller whereas the latter are wound on small bobbins, with about 120 yards of yarn on each bobbin. The bobbin warps swing between the true warps, and the sideways movement of the latter twists the two together. The bobbins revolve on the verge of a carriage, the bobbin and its carriage corresponding broadly to the pint and shuttle used in the weaving of cloth. The carriages have an oscillating movement in comb bars, each of which holds a full number of carriages both back and front; both comb bars are situated so that the combs are directly opposite in each bar. With the bobbin threads and the warp threads rising vertically to the lace roller a pattern are given to the twisted portions.

Figure 7: Diagram of the lace structure.

Fancy lace patterns may be produced by a special selecting mechanism of the Jacquard type. These machines require more than two beams of warp threads.

The greater part of lace is made from cotton yarns, and it is here that the finest counts of yarn find their outlet; even yarns as fine 400s have been used in lace designs.